Sew Along: The Final Steps

To finish the dress you need bias tape for straps.
Bias tape is cut "on the bias" which means diagonally. This means it stretches and is A LOT easier to apply along curves.

I did a great tutorial on how to make bias tape from a small amount of fabric. Bias Tape Tutorial
Once you've made the bias tape, cut it to the length you need. (you can tell from the pattern, or you can estimate - though it's definitely better to guess too long than too short!)

Once you've made your strips, Fold in half and crease enough that you can find the center. Line the center of each strip up and pin to the center of the under arms as identified by the seam.

You'll have a section over hanging to make the ties with. (This image is from a different project so you can't see the over hang here)
Sew the strap to the underarm.

Then follow the directions in the Bias Tape Tutorial for making a clean strap end.


Fold over the bias tape and sew from one end to the other.

Repeat with the other side!


And the FINAL step?
Email me photos of your work so I can include you in the wrap up!
mylittlegirlscloset at gmail dot com

Sew Along: Popover Sundress Week 3

So now that we have all the fabrics cut out we're ready to sew! This dress comes together so fast you'll be amazed!

We'll work one side at a time. Take out one yoke and one dress piece. Set aside the other two pieces for now.
First, pin the yoke (the small piece) to the top of the dress with the right side of the yoke facing the wrong side of the dress. (like in the picture)


Sew these piece together along the top edge with a 1/2" seam allowance. Fold the yoke up and iron it.


Flip it over. Fold the top 1/2" of the yoke down and iron.


Fold the Yoke in half and iron.


Pick your trim - this is optional. Before we sew down the yoke we'll need to sandwich the trim between the two pieces nice and straight. I have a bunch I'm trying to choose from. Once you've got it in there, pin the entire "sandwich' together and sew the folded yoke and trim together really close to the edge of the yoke.
Repeat all of this with the second set of pieces. These become the back and the front of the dress.
Place the back and front together with the right sides of the fabric together. Sew the side seams.
The dress is almost finished! We'll talk about the bias tape next time. If you want to make it check out the bias tape tutorial here.


Help me pick a rickrack color? I'm leaning towards white...
orange:

black:

white:

pink:

light pink:

Tutorial Grading a Pattern Version 2

Ok so now that you've tried the first way to grade a pattern I'm going to show you an even easier way. This way isn't always appropriate. For instance I find it's better for grading up than it is for grading down... It's much better for larger pattern pieces than it is for smaller ones

I managed to do all this AND blog about it during the girl's nap-time!

First you'll need to collect your supplies: Paper, pencil and your pattern. (Good light helps a ton too)


Lay the paper on top of your pattern and trace the largest size. I also like to trace the next size down so I know how much to adjust between sizes. This is going to be a template for you to use in the next step.


Once you're done tracing, lay the pattern on top of the template. Line up the largest size on the pattern with the second largest size on the template so that you can see where the next size up belongs. Trace the template onto the pattern. You'll need to extend it in the same areas where the size goes up between other sizes - this means you have to do this in sections.


Use this template to extend all the edges that need to be extending (again any edges on the fold doesn't need to be extended)



Voila!

Tutorial - Grading a Pattern Version 1

Grading a sewing pattern means resizing it to fit your needs. I have never been taught how to properly grade a pattern, I sort of worked it out on my own. I've got two methods I use, the first works best for small sizes and small pattern pieces. The second is best for larger pieces - but I'll show you that another time. Both of them are really easy to do. Here's the first method. I'm going to use the Popover Sundress we're sewing in our current Sew Along.

Some of the steps are optional and you should be able to figure out which steps they are on your own, but I will mark them with the words optional step. This is more to give you an insight into my personal processes.

Optional Step 1 Set the kids up with something to distract them


Step 1 - Assemble your supplies. You will need the pattern printed out, scissors, tape, a ruler, and a pencil


Step 2 - Tape the pattern together, matching the letters




Optional Step 2 - Realize that the Toddler should not be within arms reach of the baby while playing with markers


Optional Step 3 - Move her


Step 3 - Look at the pattern and notice how the pattern changes with the different sizes, with this pattern the difference betwen sizes is pretty consistent until you look at size 2T to size 3T. Don't worry too much about that. we're going to take 1/2 inch off of the 2T size. Also notice that the line for the fold does not change with each size.


Step 4 - Using what you learned in step 3 we're going to start editing our pattern. Draw the straight lines. You want to make your changes similar to the ones you see between the sizes that have already been graded.


Step 5 - For curves, mark dots the appropriate distance away from the lines.


Step 6 - Connect the dots


Do this for all the edges that need to be graded. Notice, however, that any pieces that are against the fold, the fold does not change. Only grade the edges that are graded for the other sizes.

Optional Step 3 - Clean up the mess

Sew Along: Popover Sundress Week 1

Recently a couple of people have asked me for a simple sundress pattern they could sew for their little one.
I think it would be fun to have a sew along! I'll take it really slow for all the beginners and anyone who wants to pass where we are please feel free. Email me photos of your creations by June 30th and I'll share with the group!
Let's make this pattern. It's free and easy enough for the beginning sewers among us. To get started you'll need some fabric consult the following to see how much you'll need.

Main Fabric
Size 2T - 1 yard
Size 3 or 4 - 1 1/4 yard
Size 5 or 6 - 1 1/3 yard
Size 7 or 8 - 1 1/2 yard

In a contrasting fabric you will need a fat quarter regardless of size. (For the new sewers, a Fat Quarter is a 1/4 yard, but instead of it being 9" x 44" it's 18" x 22" Most craft stores carry fat quarters in their quilting section.) The pattern says you need significantly more, and while it's slightly easier to just use the layout they show, the way I suggest will waste a lot less fabric. We will either make our own bias tape from this or you can purchase double fold bias tape for the shoulder ties.

Make sure you have thread for your sewing machine in a color to match either the main fabric, contrasting fabric and/or the straps. (And if you're hand sewing this Bravo you have significantly more patience than I do!) You'll also need some pins, fabric scissors, an iron and ironing board, a printer and some paper.

If you want to add a little rick-rack or lace between the yoke and the main portion of the dress you'll need about 3/4 yard of it.